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Why use native grasses?
There is a native grass suitable for almost any area where exotic grasses are currently being used!
Fertiliser requirements reduced.
Unlike exotic grasses, which require high fertilizer, native grasses have adapted over many thousands of years to suit Australia's nutrient-deficient soils.
Irrigation requirements reduced.
Many of our native grasses have a higher tolerance to moisture stress than exotic grasses and can, therefore, withstand periods of drought without the need for irrigation.
Mowing reduced.
Native grasses can be mown to create a lawn or left to create a natural effect.
Insecticide requirements reduced.
Native grasses do not attract insect infestations as exotic grasses can do.
Commercial availability
As a result of research and development into seed collection, cleaning and propagation of native grass seed in recent years, many native grasses are now available on a commercial basis.
Native grasses as turf.
As drought conditions persist and Australians become more water-conscious, many are turning to native grasses as a lawn alternative. These grasses reflect the natural, understated beauty of our local flora and offer a sustainable move away from traditional European-style lawns.
While no native grass currently on the market can withstand heavy wear (like daily sports or frequent foot traffic), they’re ideal for low-use areas—such as spaces for occasional play, sitting, or simply enjoying a patch of green. If that sounds like your needs, the options below may be perfect.
Getting started.
Questions to ask yourself before choosing a grass, or to discuss with our staff. Preparation is the difference between a great lawn and an average one.
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Is it a sunny site?
What type of soil do I have?
Does it get watered?
What do I need to use the grass for?Will children or pets use the lawn?
Are there any drainage issues?
If heavy foot traffic is expected, can I put a path in?
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Spray the existing lawn area with herbicide (at least twice in most cases to ensure all the old turf has died)
Leave the area for a few weeks to be sure the herbicide has worked.
Level the area and if necessary use a native garden mix to fill any holes or topdress.
If soil is compacted, use a pitchfork to aerate the soil.
How to plant.
Choose between sowing seed or planting tubestock. Each method requires different timing and care to establish a healthy native lawn.
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Best in spring.
Mix with dry soil or sand to distribute evenly.
Water gently and keep moist until germination; gradually reduce watering once established.
Don’t mulch or bury seeds — use a light sand layer only if needed.
Ensure the area is weed-free before and after sowing.
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Tubestock includes tubes and grow-cells.
Best planted in autumn or spring.
Use 10–15 plants per square metre.
Mulch lightly with native-suitable compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Water thoroughly for the first 2 weeks, then weekly until established (~1 month).
Water occasionally during summer.
Place moisture-loving species near logs or rocks.
Monitor and manage weeds during establishment.
Seed vs Tubestock?
Many people have difficulty deciding which method to start their lawn with. Both have their advantages — it comes down to budget, time, and how soon you want results.
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More affordable and simple to apply.
Slower to establish (8–12 weeks).
Uses less water overall.
Weed control is essential.
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More expensive and labour-intensive to plant.
Establishes faster than seed.
Often sourced locally and better adapted to your area.
Needs watering while establishing, then becomes low-maintenance.
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Seed takes longer but costs less. Tubestock gets you results faster—with a higher upfront investment.
Grow-cells are cheaper and quicker to plant.
Availability may vary — some grasses may only come in tube form.
Pre-ordering ensures you get your preferred format and size.
Maintenance.
Native lawns are generally low-maintenance, but a few simple practices will keep them looking their best year-round.
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Mow based on the species and the look you’re after. Use the highest setting on your mower, and occasionally leave the catcher off to help suppress weeds and promote natural self-seeding.
Most native grasses are summer growers and go dormant in winter, so mowing is usually only needed during the warmer months. The varieties we recommend keep their colour year-round and don’t require over-sowing.
Fertilising is rarely needed — only apply in cases where the lawn shows signs of poor health.
Grass types.
Mostly, native grasses do not have “runners”. This is not a bad thing at all. Have you ever had to pull all the Kikuyu out of your vege-patch or garden? Well, you know what I mean.
Most native grasses grow in clumps, and are spread by seed. It’s a good idea to let the plant set seed at least once a year to keep the lawn fresh, will greatly reduce spacing between the ‘clumps or tussocks’ and provide a wonderful ‘springiness’ to your lawn.
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This grass is highly recommended for most sites. It will grow well in sun or shade, some forms retaining its lush light green colour even during drought. It will also tolerate and look good in most soil types including waterlogged clay, but does its best in moist well-drained soils in full sun and shady sites. (Shady sites tolerate more dryness).
Weeping Meadow Grass mows very well and tolerates light traffic. (It will stand kids and pets playing on it).
This grass contains higher nutrients than the exotic grasses being used as feed in paddocks all over Australia for horses and cattle etc.
The only small problem with this grass is that the seeds can irritate the skin of long or thick haired dogs. This can very easily be avoided by mowing the grass before the seed matures.
Available in seed, grow-cells and tubestock.
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Windmill Grass is a lovely tussock grass with highly attractive flowers and light green foliage.
It is recommended for dry sunny sites but will also tolerate moist soils and some shade.
It mows very well, but keeps a dense habit even when not mowed. Great for rocky sites or steep hills.
We recommend letting Windmill Grass flower in summer at least every second year as the plants can be short-lived and the resulting seed will keep your lawn healthy.
Usually available in seed, grow-cells and tubes.
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Red Leg Grass is a very hardy, deep green, fine leaved grass that turns a pretty red colour in winter.
It is recommended for dry sunny sites, much like the Windmill Grass, but will also grow happily in moist soils.
It mows very well, but keeps a dense habit even when not mowed. It should only need mowing after seeding in spring to summer. Great for rocky sites or steep hills.
Usually available in seed, grow-cells and tubes.
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Kangaroo Grass is a very popular ornamental grass, as well as being suitable for native lawns.
It is recommended for dry, rocky or sandy soils in full sun to shade.
Kangaroo Grass has adapted differently to the various places it is found throughout Australia; from forest sites it grows taller, from coastal sites it grows shorter. For a lawn, the coastal form is more suitable, not needing as much mowing, although the forest form is perfectly fine provided it is mowed.
Kangaroo Grass can have an attractive red tinge to the winter foliage, which contrasts nicely to its normal light grey-green colour.
Available in seed, grow-cells and tubes.
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Many forms of Wallaby Grass have a fine textured leaf and small growing habit that makes them suitable for lawns. Ask about the forms local to your area.
It is recommended for most soils, in full or part sun. Although it will tolerate the drought and thrive, it may lose its lovely mid-green colour as it dies back a little.
Wallaby Grass has very attractive white flowers if left unmowed over summer.
Available in seed, grow-cells and tubes.
Sowing Native Grass Seed.
As interest in sustainable landscaping grows, many are looking to native grasses not just for their beauty, but for their adaptability. Sowing native seed is an accessible and cost-effective way to create a natural, low-maintenance lawn that supports local biodiversity.
With the right preparation and a little patience, native grasses can establish well from seed or grow-cells. The guides below outline everything you need to get started — from choosing species to sowing and long-term care.
Kangaroo Grass: A Versatile Native Example
(Themeda australis)
Kangaroo Grass is a densely tufted perennial with short, fine, soft, strappy leaves. It is highly ornamental in its flowering state in spring/summer, with green to blue-green foliage during spring, slowly changing to purple and later to brown during autumn and winter. It forms a large tussock shape, if not mown, from which emerge long and graceful tillers of flower spikes up to 1.5m, which turn a rich golden bronze colour during late summer and autumn.
Before you plant.
successful establishment starts with selecting the right species and preparing the site carefully. native grasses thrive when given the right conditions from the outset.
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native seedlings struggle to compete with weeds. Ensure the area is cleared thoroughly before planting.
Many species tolerate selective herbicides once established (~15cm tall), but always test a small patch first.
consistent moisture is needed:
— ~6 weeks for seed
— ~4 weeks for seedlings
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Kangaroo grass is highly adaptable, thriving in arid, alpine, and coastal zones.
It grows vigorously, shading out weeds and tolerating fire and many herbicides.
Ideal for mixed conditions and shaded sites beneath trees or shrubs.
Spring burning can promote germination of soil-stored seed and suppress weed regrowth.
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Remove all summer-growing grasses like couch, paspalum, kikuyu, and nutgrass.
If needed, apply herbicide in 3–4 week intervals leading up to planting.
Avoid sowing until daily average temps reach 20°C+.
For best growth, sow in spring or early summer when warmth and moisture are optimal.
Planting methods.
There are two main ways to establish a native lawn: sowing seed or planting grow-cell seedlings. Each method has its own timing and technique. Use the guides below to follow the right approach for your site.
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Best done in spring or early summer once average daily temperatures reach 20°C.
Mix seed with dry sand or soil to help spread it evenly across the surface.
Slightly bury the seed for good soil contact — avoid deep coverage.
A very light layer of leaf litter or straw (max 1cm) can help retain moisture.
Water gently and consistently for up to 6 weeks until seedlings are established.
Hand broadcasting or hydro-seeding are both effective.
If using hydro-mulch, apply only a thin layer to avoid smothering the seed.
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Supplied in trays of 312 inverted pyramid cells (3cm x 5cm).
For dense, pure stands: space 10–15 cm apart (50–100 plants/m²).
For mixed planting: space ~100 cm apart.
Water daily or every 2 days for 4 weeks depending on weather conditions.
Ensure consistent moisture during establishment to avoid losses.
Aftercare & Maintenance.
Once your native lawn is in the ground, a few simple practices will support healthy growth and long-term resilience. From initial watering to seasonal maintenance, this care ensures your grass thrives with minimal input.
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Maintain consistent moisture through daily or every second-day watering.
Avoid walking on newly planted areas.
Watch for slow germinators like Kangaroo Grass — do not disturb too early.
Use cover crops like Millet on slopes to prevent erosion.
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Mow or slash annually in winter to remove dead foliage and promote regrowth.
Alternatively, burn every 2–3 years for rejuvenation in large areas.
Once established, Kangaroo Grass and other natives require no summer watering.
Weed the area before native grasses drop seed to avoid mixing with exotics.
If time-poor, cut off weed seed heads before they fall to manage spread.
Cost-Effective Revegetation.
For larger properties or long-term regeneration projects, native grass establishment can be done in stages with minimal input.
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Focus on small, manageable areas at a time — e.g. 10 m².
Ensure areas are weed-free before sowing.
Sow seed at approx. 5g per m².
Create a “seed sourcing area” by harvesting mature stalks and laying them on new ground — ideal for banks or erosion-prone spots.
Planting tubestock.
Why plant Forestry Tube stock.
The NSW Forestry Commission conducted trials in the 1950’s to ascertain what was the best size tube or pot to plant out native species in our forests for optimum survival.
It was found that forestry tubes (50mm x 120mm) were the plants that survived the best and they also outgrew the plants that were planted out from 150mm to 200mm pot sizes.
The reason is that the roots were deep enough and the plants were small enough to start coping on their own as they required a lot less water. The 150mm and 200mm pots had too many roots and too much growth for plants to survive on their own as they required much more water. Even when all sizes received optimum water, the forestry tube stock grew faster than the larger plants. Again, the forestry roots became used to their new home much quicker than the bigger plants.
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Clear the area of all weeds.
Apply a light, leafy mulch (not bark-heavy), around 50mm thick.
Good soil preparation gives plants the best chance to thrive.
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Gently squeeze the sides of the tube and tap it on a hard surface to release the plant.
Do not disturb the roots.
Dig a hole the same size as the tube.
Place the plant at the same depth it was growing in the tube and firm the soil around it.
Avoid burying the stem deeper than its original level.
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Water thoroughly at planting.
Continue watering every 4 days for around 3 weeks (depending on season and rainfall).
Check soil moisture by testing 5cm deep — water deeply if it’s dry.
Light yellowing leaves may indicate a need for fertiliser, though native plants often don't require it.
Prune every 6 months to maintain a full, bushy shape.
— Lightly pinch the top or trim by one-third if the plant becomes leggy.
How to Plant Tubestock.
Planting forestry tube stock is simple, but a few key steps will help ensure healthy root development and long-term growth. Start with good preparation, plant gently, and water deeply during the establishment phase.